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Posted by on Mar 19, 2013 in Gear, Reviews | 5 comments

The Rain and Dust Cover I Use For My Nikon DSLR (Opteka Rain Covers)

The Rain and Dust Cover I Use For My Nikon DSLR (Opteka Rain Covers)

After mentioning the dust that you’ll encounter in my Death Valley Racetrack story last week, I had a few questions on what I use to protect my camera in the elements. I’ve gone through a few different options over the years. For starters, every time I’m in a hotel room I take the shower caps and put them in my camera bag. They come in really handy in light rain and dusty conditions, but they’re really only good if you have a smaller lens on (like my Nikon 16-35mm). Even then, it’s a tight fit. And definitely not so great for a larger 70-200mm though. The next best thing after that for me, has been a garbage bag. I always keep them with me. But the problem there is that they’re only good for covering the camera if you’re out in the elements – not using it. It’s really hard to actually operate the camera with a bag over it.

The Opteka SRC-40
So eventually, I realized I needed something better and more reliable. After doing some searching and reading reviews I settled on the Opteka SRC-40 from Amazon.com. It fits right over the camera, has pull cords to keep it closed, and a transparent area on the back so you can still see and operate your camera. It’s got two areas on the side that are angled downward for your hands to slide in without letting in water from above.

opteka1

I’ve been in light rain and extremly dusty conditions with it and it’s kept my gear safe. Now, I haven’t had it in a total downpour yet (but I’m sure I will), but so far I’m really happy with it. And the best part? It’s only $20. Seriously folks, NOTHING in photography only costs $20. It’s also extremely well made and collapses down to a fairly small size to easily fit in your camera bag. It’s a little bit of a paint to put on the first time, but once you get the hang of it, it’s not bad at all.

Here’s the link if you want to check it out on Amazon.

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Posted by on Feb 12, 2013 in Gear, Photography, Reviews | 16 comments

My First Thoughts/Review On The Tamron 24-70mm Lens

tamronpost
Last month I got a hold of a Tamron 24-70mm lens to try out. Whenever opportunities to try out gear like that come along I try to jump on them. Mainly because being out in front of audiences throughout the year, I hear so many thoughts/rumors/misnomers and old wives tales about photography that I’m never quite sure what’s true unless I try it myself. In this case, you hear so many things about Nikon/Canon lenses being better than their counterparts from other manufacturers, so I thought this was a great way to put it to the test.

Why I Wanted To Try This Specific Lens
I wanted to try the Tamron 24-70mm lens because I don’t own a Nikon 24-70mm. I’ve been thinking about purchasing one, but they’re damn expensive. Having just bought a D800 recently, I was ready to give my wallet a rest. When the opportunity to try out the lens before my trip to Death Valley came up, I thought this would be the perfect chance to put it up against it’s Nikon counterpart. And I knew my friend would have a Nikon 24-70mm with him, so I’d be able to test them out side by side.

Why The Comparison, And What To Compare?
So why the comparison? Why not just buy the Nikon? The $600 price difference is a good place to start. I wanted to see how this lens stacked up against the Nikon version. Another reason I wanted to compare them was sharpness. Sharpness is probably the number one thing people care about when it comes to a lens. Probably even more than price in some cases. I think most people will find a way to spend the extra money on a lens if you know it’s sharper than another one. The last thing I wanted to test out was auto focus. I use auto focus a lot, and I wanted to make sure that the auto-focus was accurate and quick.

The Test (2 lenses and then some)
Ok, let’s talk a little about my testing situation. It was far from technically perfect, but for me it was the exact situation I would use the lens. I set my D800 on a tripod and put the Nikon 24-70 on first. I focussed on a specific area, set the focal length at 24mm and took a photo using 2 aperture settings (f/8 and f/22). Then I set it at 70mm and did the same thing.

Next, I very quickly changed lenses to the Tamron 24-70 and took the same photos (while focussing on the same area). I even tried out the Nikon 24mm f/1.4 prime lens and the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens just to see they’d be any different.

The Results
The results kinda surprised me. I figured I’d see at least some difference in the photos. Maybe along the edges when I was shooting wide at 24mm. But I didn’t. Honestly, I could barely see a difference. Not in sharpness, color, quality or any other visible part about the photo.

That said, I did notice one thing. The area I had focussed on with the Nikon was picked up quickly with the auto-focus. When I switched to the Tamron, it didn’t pick it up as quickly. I left the focus point in the same exact place, but the auto-focus seemed to search for a few seconds. Eventually, after holding the shutter halfway down to focus another time or two, it did lock on to the same area and all was good. For landscapes and outdoors that doesn’t bother me too much. Time usually isn’t critical in those cases. But if you’re shooting events, people, wildlife or anything where those few seconds make a difference, then it could be something to consider and test out before you buy.

Another Shoot
The previous test covers just about everything I’d want to do with the lens. I don’t shoot a ton of portraits and the portraits I do shoot, I’m usually outdoors using my 70-200 lens. But once in a while I need to do some studio work and the 24-70mm lens is a great lens for the studio. So I used the Tamron in the studio a couple of weeks ago and the lens totally nailed it. The eyes were tack sharp. I mean, it’s as sharp as any other lens I’ve ever shot, so no problems there. You can see some photos below. I included a zoomed in photo of her eye which is one areas we’re most concerned with. You can see that the unsharpened version is still really sharp. After I ran some Unsharp Mask on it in Photoshop, it looks awesome. In fact, it’s actually hard to see below, with the fade between not-sharpened and the sharpened version. But when it’s in Photoshop and you turn the layer on and off, you can definitely tell the difference.

Something else worth noting is that I did have the modeling light off on the strobe I was using. The Tamron, again, took a few attempts to find focus. But as soon as I turned the modeling light on, it found it immediately. Now, I wasn’t able to test the Nikon after this, so I don’t know how it would have performed, but again, it’s just something to keep in mind.

NOTE: The Tamron lens has their vibration reduction feature on it, while the Nikon doesn’t, so that’s not something I could compare head-to-head.

Does This Mean I’m Selling My Nikon Lenses?
So does this all mean that I’m selling my Nikon lenses? Nope. You’ll pry my 70-200mm lens out of my cold dead hands before I ever give it up :) That lens is magic. It sounds silly, but it is. And I’ve never heard more good press on a lens as I have the Nikon 85mm f/1.4. I don’t use it quite as much, but there’s way too many people out there (that I trust) calling the 85mm one of the best lenses Nikon has made. But, to me at least, I’ve never heard anyone as passionate about the 24-70mm, which is why I figured that would be a great place to start a comparison. And if I do decide to go with a 24-70mm, and add one to my kit, then I’d definitely keep the Tamron lens over the Nikon and save $600. The auto-focus thing I mentioned earlier wouldn’t bother me for the type of shooting I do, but it’s definitely something to consider if you shoot more time critical subjects.

So what lens should you buy?
I would say to do your research, but nothing will confuse you more than online reviews and forum posts. You’ll find some one that feels a certain strong away about something, no matter what the topic is or what gear you’re looking at. Trust me, I’ve seen it. One forum post will say that a certain lens is the best thing to come along since sliced bread. The next forum post will of course be the snarky and useless “buy the best lens that you can afford” comment (come on… you know you all hate forums that have people like that on it) ;) . And then the next comment will come along and discredit the previous post, call his mother a few choice words (because that’s what they do on forums), and tell you that the lens they love is the ONLY lens to buy. It’s an endless circle of searching that’ll leave you more confused then when you started.

So here’s my recommendation. Try it out. Hopefully you can go the easy route and you have a friend with a certain lens that you’re looking for that you can try out. If not, just about every camera store out there has a great return policy. I just check B&H Photo’s return policy and it’s 30 days if you’re unhappy with the product (and you have the original box, manual, etc…). It even says items with “shutter counts” are returnable if they show less than 200 exposures. I’m not sure if lenses have shutter counts, but it should certainly take you less than 200 photos to figure out if you like it or not. There’s no substitute for trying it out though and I recommend that route in just about everything out there (gear, lenses, plug-ins, software, you name it).

Disclaimer: Full disclosure. Tamron provided me the lens to try out. Tamron is a sponsor of the company I work for, and a sponsor of the seminars I teach. Hopefully by now, you know my writing style and teaching well enough to know that this in no way affects my review and thoughts here. I shouldn’t have to say it… but… well, I’m just sayin’ ;)

Thanks for stopping by today. Have a good one!

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Posted by on Feb 7, 2013 in Gear, Photography, Reviews | 19 comments

Nikon 24mm f/1.4 Review (from a Landscape Photography view)

Nikon 24mm Lens
A few weeks ago I test drove the Nikon 24mm f/1.4 prime lens on my trip to Death Valley. I ended really liking it and wanted to give you some thoughts about why I did.

A Surprise Test Drive
It was weird because I had absolutely no interest in using this lens. But our video team at Kelby Training had the lens (it’s a popular video lens) and it turned out I could borrow it for a few days, so I did. One of the reasons I really wanted to try it out was because you constantly hear talk of how prime lenses are sharper than zoom lenses. I figured I could put it to the test against my Nikon 16-35mm lens at 24mm, and compare the results.

My First Time Using It
The first day I used it was when we went to shoot the sand dunes in Death Valley. I was a little worried that I’d have this prime lens on, and wouldn’t be able to zoom. While I had my 16-35mm lens with me, I wasn’t crazy about having to change lenses on sand dunes. But I decided to go for it anyway. I had it on right from the start and was amazed that an hour later, I hadn’t even thought about the fact that I hand’t zoomed. It was actually pretty cool. For my style of landscape photography, being fixed at 24mm seemed to work out just fine. That actually fits with what I already knew though, because I rarely shoot my 16-35mm at 16mm. Personally, unless I have something really close in the frame that I want to accent, I find 16mm makes everything off in the distance too small. So I find myself shooting at the longer end of the 16-35mm, and composing so that my foreground elements are there, but also the background elements of my landscapes still make an impact.

Here’s an example of what I mean. I shot these photos at Trillium Lake in Oregon. One photo is at 16mm and one is at 35mm. You can see how Mt. Hood gets really small and becomes much less part of the photo at 16mm. But at 35mm, it’s feels like a larger part of the photo.

BTW… This is a VERY personal choice and style. I personally like the 35mm image better for my style. Many of you may prefer the other one. That’s totally okay :-)

What I Liked About The Lens
Well, you already know that I liked not zooming. I never felt the need for a different focal length that morning and ended up keeping the lens on until I replaced it with the 70-200mm, for some tighter more abstract photo of the dunes.

But the main thing I REALLY liked about the lens is something that is VERY specific to my style of shooting. It’s the sun-star it produces when shooting into the sun. Personally, I love shooting into the sun for my landscape photography. Especially when the sun is just about to come up from behind the horizon (or mountain) or set behind it. To me, it represents a very specific point in the day. A moment that only happens once in the place you’re standing. It’s like a perfect moment captured in time and held still. For me, it adds something of a dynamic element to landscapes.

Because of the blades and shape of the aperture, your wide aperture lenses like f/1.4 and even up to f/2.8 tend to have very nice looking, orderly sun-stars (when shot at higher f-stop numbers like f/16 and f/22). Here’s a couple of examples from the trip where I used it. If you wait until the sun is just coming up, or just setting this is the look you get. And when I say just coming up, I mean, within the first 10-20 seconds – after that I starts to get bigger and brighter.

Now here’s an example using my Nikon 16-35mm f/4 lens. It may not be a huge difference. But to some one who really likes shooting into the sun, the shape of that star burst (and the differences) is very noticeable.

Monument Valley

Was It Really Sharper?
Here’s what surprised me the most. I’ve heard for many years that prime lenses are sharper then zoom lenses. And I’ve actually seen that some of them are. Take my 85mm f/1.4 as an example. It’s sharper then if I set my 70-200mm lens at 85mm and take a photo. As I mentioned before, this was one thing I really wanted to test out with this lens. While I’m not an overly technical person, I decided to do a test. I set my camera on my tripod and took a series of photos with the Nikon 24mm prime. Then I changed to my 16-35mm lens, set the focal length to 24mm and took the same set of photos. Heck, I even put the 14-24mm on and the 24-70mm on to test them at 24mm too. When I opened the photos in Photoshop and put them on top of each other, I couldn’t tell any noticeable difference. Again, I’m not a techie person, so I don’t look at things like chromatic aberration, diffraction and all of those really techie things that only other photographers (not the rest of the world) notice. But from what I could see, there wasn’t anything close to a noticeable difference to warrant buying a lens like this because it’s sharper. It may be true for other prime lenses, but not this one from what I’ve found.

Would I (personally) Buy The Lens?
Here’s the magic question… would I buy this lens? For me, the answer is no for several reasons:

1) Why buy an f/1.4 lens if you’re not going to shoot it at f/1.4. Seriously, that’s part of what you’re spending your money on (almost $2000). I don’t shoot weddings and events. I think it’s a lens with a large aperture of f/1.4, meant for low-light situations, and shallow depth of field to isolate subjects from the background. Not to mention, it’s great for video DSLR because it’ll give a very cinematic feel to the video. But for landscapes and what I tend shoot, it’s overkill.

2) While I love the shape of the sun-star that it produces, having a dedicated lens for just that is something that I’ll have to wait until I’m a rich doctor to own :-) Right now, it’s not worth the extra money, weight in my camera bag, not to mention the downside of not having a zoom lens if I need it.

3) It’s a heck-of-a lot of money to spend on a fixed prime lens because I “kinda” liked not zooming. You know what? I kinda like having an extra $2000 in my pocket too. So if I ever feel the need to not zoom, I’ll tape my lens so it’s fixed at 24mm so I can’t zoom ;)

What Lens Do I Use?
I wrote about it a while back and it’s probably due for an update blog post, but I use the Nikon 16-35mm f/4 lens. It’s proven to be a great landscape photography lens, and plenty sharp enough.

Thanks for stopping by. If you’ve got any experience with the lens, I’d love to here about it. Have a good one!

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Posted by on Dec 18, 2012 in Gear, Reviews | 33 comments

Why You Need A Strong Tripod

My good friend Bill Fortney once told me (nearly 8 years ago) that if your tripod doesn’t hurt when you carry it, it’s not a strong enough tripod. I know, it sounds kinda weird. But I’ll tell you what… 8 years (and several tripods) later, I’ve learned he’s right.

The Tripod Dilemma We Face As Photographers
One of the dilemmas we face with tripods is the whole size/weight/price battle. We want small and light but we also want inexpensive. But we don’t want “cheap”. We want something built well. Now, if you’re just looking for small you can get away with a lot. But there’s limitations when you have a small tripod. Sometimes it’s not tall enough or strong enough. So what happens then? Well, you go for a larger tripod of course. But larger tripod means harder to fit into luggage and carry around. With size comes weight right? Then what? You move to carbon fiber. Lighter maybe, but more expensive. You can see how this becomes an endless cycle of trying to figure out which tripod is best for you.

I Started With A Heavy Tripod
I first started out with a hand-me-down heavy tripod. This thing was a beast! It was big and heavy, but it did the job. With my career though, I find myself taking many small trips during the year. Trips where I don’t want to check bags because I need to get in and out of wherever I’m going and coming from. Big heavy tripods don’t work for that.

My Move To A Smaller Tripod
About 4 years ago I saw some one with a Gitzo Traveler tripod. I was amazed. Amazed at just how small this tripod would fold into. I’m still amazed to this day. It literally fits into my 15 inch Macbook Pro laptop bag. It’s crazy. And I still use it constantly. In my book, the best tripod is the one that you have with you. If carrying a big tripod with you isn’t an option, having something is better than nothing.

What I’ve Learned Over The Years
All of that said, what I’ve learned over the years is that Bill was 100% right. If you want total tack sharp photos then you need total stability. You need a solid tripod that’s not going to move in the wind and on mildly unstable surfaces. If you’ve never really been out taking pictures in high winds (10-15+ mph), then you may not realize how important this is. My first realization came when I was on a trip to the Palouse region of Washington State. I was up on Steptoe Butte shooting sunrise with the wind just ripping through. I, of course, decided to travel lightly and had my smaller tripod. At first glance, on the back of my camera, you’d never see that the photos weren’t sharp. But after looking at them on the computer I immediately knew it. It’s happened to me several times since. The most recent was my trip to Toronto while trying to take this photo on a tiny tripod.

(click to see it larger)

Tononto Skyline

I eventually got the shot. But not without a ton of blurry photos because it was so windy. It was at that moment that I decided to write this blog post. Here’s a few photos so you can see what I’m talking about. Luckily, I kinda knew it was happening at the time so I zoomed in on the LCD to double check sharpness. After that, I just waited for the wind to die down and grabbed any photo I could during that time.

The Tripod I Now Swear By
I’ve always used a Really Right Stuff ballhead (the BH-40 and BH-55). I still remember when I got my first one. My only regret was that I waited so long to get it (they’re not cheap which is why I waited). But I never used their tripods until I got to try out the TVC-33 Versa Series 3 Tripod at a workshop. I was specifically looking for something big and sturdy (since I already have a small travel size tripod). After spending a day using it, I instantly knew that this was the tripod I was looking for. It’s the perfect height for me (I’m 6′ 1″ tall). Raised to it’s highest with a ballhead on it, I can barely see the top of the camera. Here’s what I really like about it:
• It’s a 3-leg section tripod. That means less knobs to twist to extend the legs. In fact, I can put my hand over both of them and loosen both with one twist.
• The knobs lock the tripod legs – so that the legs don’t rotate around – just the knobs that extend the tripod.
• The Angle Stops that let you move the legs outward at an angle are the easiest and smoothest I’ve ever seen.
• The teardrop-shaped rubber feet keep the sidewalls of the tripod from hitting the ground and getting dirty at lower angles. And they’re fairly wide so they don’t sink into sand as quickly as some smaller ones do.
• It’s got a built-in weight hook in the middle with a big sized hook (not a retractable one that’s hard to get to).
• And it looks great. I know many of you don’t think aesthetics make a different but to me they do. This tripod just looks slick.

What’s really weird is that this tripod in incredibly sturdy, but light. Not as light as a small travel tripod, but it’s light considering it’s size. But when you’re camera is on it, trust me, it’s solid. I know there’s WAY more science to this then I’m explaining because of the way that RRS makes their carbon fiber legs and the size and vibration damping technology they use. I wish I could explain it but I can’t – it’s just solid.

Watch This Video
If you’re thinking of buying this tripod (or any of them), then watch the video at this link. You’ll see the thought and technology that went behind creating a tripod like this.

It Ain’t Cheap
I know it’s not a cheap tripod. List price is over $900. But I can tell you this. It’ll last. I equate this purchase to my 70-200 lens. Way back when, I ended up buying 2 lenses to avoid the hefty price tag of the 70-200. I eventually bought the 70-200 so I was out the cost of it, and the two lenses I bought before. After all that, I’ve never looked back though. Same thing here. It’s all built right here in the US. It’s built by a company that’s known for standing behind their products. Give the folks at RRS a call and ask them anything about something you own (or are thinking of buying), and I bet you’ll see that too. On top of all that, they have a 5-year guarantee.

What’s My Kickback?
I know I probablby sound like I work for RRS but I don’t :) I don’t get kickbacks from them for every tripod you buy, and there’s nobody there that asks me to write about their stuff. I just feel that when I get passionate about a product, I want to share it with you. I feel like I’ve been through a lot of tripods and spent a lot of money on stuff I don’t use anymore. So I figure I can help save some people that frustration.

What About My Gitzo Traveler?
I’ll still use it. And I’ll still take it with me on trips where I simply can’t bring the larger tripod. But I do so knowing the potential downside. That if I find myself in a windy, sandy or otherwise unstable place I’m going to sacrifice sharpness in my photos. There is a tradeoff. Depending on where I’m going and how fast I need to get in and out, I’m sometimes willing to take the gamble.

At The End Of The Day
At the end of the day, whether you buy the tripod I recommend or another one, if you’re into outdoor photographer you should really consider a larger, sturdy tripod. That usually means heavier and bulkier then you’d hope as well. It goes against a lot of things that you may “think” you want out of a tripod. But if you take anything from this article, it’s that my buddy Bill knows his stuff. Had I listened to him 8 years ago, I probably would have saved myself a bunch of money and blurry photos :)

Thanks for stopping by. If you have any questions just post ‘em here and I’ll try to stop in and answer during the day. Have a good one!

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Posted by on Oct 2, 2012 in Photography, Reviews | 35 comments

My Nikon D800 vs D800E Comparison


Last week I got a D800E from LensProToGo.com for my photo trip out west. I wanted to put it up against a Nikon D800 to see if I’d really notice the extra sharpness you get because the 800E doesn’t have the anti-aliasing filter. Now, going into the test I have to say I expected to like the D800E better. It’s a little niche, and isn’t the norm, so it just seemed like it would be cool to have the D800E in my bag.

Why The Comparison?
I’ve pretty much settled on the fact that I’m going to buy a Nikon D800. I’ve borrowed one enough by now to know that I like it. I love to shoot landscape and outdoor photos and that’s primarily what I intend to shoot with it. I think the D800 is perfect for it. It’s sharp as heck and produces huge files with incredible resolution. Since you’re typically on a tripod for landscape and outdoors, you really get to enjoy the sharpness in those files for some amazing prints. So at this point, I’m sold on the D800, but before I pulled the trigger I wanted to test out the D800E (without the anti-aliasing filter) to see if it would be noticeably sharper.

Another Reason For The Test
I’ve done my research on the D800E to know it was indeed going to produce sharper photos than the regular D800. But another reason I wanted to do the comparison, was because everything I’ve read on this to date didn’t really show examples with the type of photos that I take. Some tests were fairly simple images people took in their backyards or what seemed like some place local to where they already were. Since I was buying this for landscape photography, I wanted to get it out in the type of conditions that I’d actually be shooting in.

By The Way – We Already Know The D800E Will Produce Sharper Photos
This isn’t a technical review and, before we get too far, you should know this. The D800E will indeed produce sharper photos than the D800 will. Because it doesn’t have an anti-aliasing filter it will be sharper (although the lack of filter can cause moiré when taking photos of repeating patterns). No doubt about it. I’ve already read several reviews/articles on it. Ken Rockwell has a good one as well as the Luminous Landscape. So my point wasn’t whether or not to prove that they were right or wrong. I trust those guys and knew going into this that the D800E would produce a sharper photo than the D800.

But just how sharp? My goal here was to see whether or not I’d really notice the additional sharpness in the real world.

What I Consider The Real World?
So what’s this “real world” I speak of? I consider the real world the following:
• My online web portfolio (and image the size of something you’d see on the web)
• Facebook and Google+ (the primary social media websites in which I share my photos)
• On screen for when I’m demo’ing Lightroom or Photoshop (I zoom in to my photos quite a bit when teaching so super sharp photos is a plus!)
• And of course, the Print which is where I thought I’d really see the difference if there was one.

How I Did The Comparison
I recently took a trip to Jackson Hole, WY to photography Grand Teton National Park. I got a D800E for the week from LensProToGo.com (where I get all my rentals from) and my friends over at The Digital Photo Workshops had a D800 for me to put it up against. Every comparison I’d seen to date didn’t have the scenery I wanted so I figured this would be a great place to test it out.

The Results (the short version)
Okay time for the results… first I’ll give you the short version… really short. I’m not buying a D800E. I didn’t notice enough extra sharpness to warrant the possible downside (increased risk of moiré, false color and not to mention an extra $300).

The Results (slightly longer version)
Okay, I figure if you’re still reading you want to know a little more. For starters, I did the test with the setup that I usually use for landscapes. A solid tripod (Really Right Stuff TVC-33 in this case) and my Nikon 16-35mm lens. I switched out cameras on the tripod and took the test photos within about 30 seconds of each other. So conditions were about as identical as possible. There wasn’t really much wind and the light was barely changing at the time.

When I got the photos on the computer to compare I could definitely see a difference. Now, it wasn’t a huge difference but it was about what I’d expected from reading the other articles. You’ll have to stare at it a few times to really see the difference.

Here’s a Before/After zoomed in way further than anyone would ever see my photos at

And here’s the full image so you can get an idea of how far zoomed in I am and how much of the original you’re actually seeing (little box in the lower left corner).

So there’s definitely a difference. But is it a difference anyone will ever see? Maybe if I printed it at a 30×40 or something large. But I printed it out at something I think is more typical (a 13×19) and let me tell ya… you can barely (and I mean barely) see a difference. It’s so subtle you wonder if your eyes are just playing tricks on you. And once you run just the slightest bit of Unsharp Mask on the photo (around 50%) in Photoshop, all bets are off and you’d never know the difference.

As for screen size images, absolutely not. Below are two images (you should click to see them larger). I saved them at a size which is about the largest I’d display on screen and I can’t see the difference.

D800:

D800E:

What About Moiré?
Nope. Nada. Zilch. Nothing I shot with the D800E produce a moiré pattern.

What About Auto-Focus Problems?
Oh yeah, I’ve heard about people having auto-focus problems with the D800. Doug Kaye wrote about it on his website. Personally, I haven’t had these problems so there’s not much I can say about ‘em other than I know people that have had issues.

Final Thoughts?
My final thoughts are much like Ken Rockwell’s. If you’re a pixel peeper. If you’re the kind that loves to talk histograms, bit-depth, diffraction on lenses and all that fun stuff ;) , then you may appreciate the slightly sharper image the D800E gives you. But in my tests, shooting what I actually shoot, I’ll probably pass on the D800E and go with the D800. I know I never had any moiré problems, but there is the risk that I may shooting something where it does. The little sharpness gain from the 800E just wasn’t worth it to me. That said, if you already have an 800E or you decide to buy one I think you’re just fine. They’re both EXCELLENT cameras and I don’t think you could go wrong either way. I just figured I’d at least share my personal experiences on the whole thing.

Thanks for stopping by. Let me know if you have any questions :)

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Posted by on Aug 29, 2012 in Reviews | 9 comments

Follow Up To My “Favorite Wacom Tablet For Photographers” Post


Last week, I wrote a post about the Wacom tablet that I swear by. I get asked a lot about which tablet I use, so I wrote about which one I recommend for photographers. I saw a few questions come up both on the road and in some comments so here’s a little follow up Q&A:

Question: Matt…could you post how you have the express keys setup for Photoshop & Lightroom on the Intuos tablet. It would help some of us just starting out on the tablet to use it like those of you longtime tablet users and not to stumble around “reinventing the wheel”…so to speak?

I gotta be honest with you here. I don’t use the express keys :) I just like a Wacom tablet for the feel of working with a pen. To me, the pressure sensitivity is something you just can’t get from a mouse. And it just feels way more accurate. If I’m being really honest with you, most people I know don’t use the express keys either. Now… all that said… they do have some great benefits. As with anything, you have to put a little effort into it, to get something out of it. Here’s a quick article I found that had some good tips in it if you are using the express keys.

Question: I notice you’re using the Intuos version of the tablets. I like the Medium Intuous 4 that I have at work but I’ve thought of buying a Bamboo for home, since I don’t really need the tilt detection. Are there any other big negatives that you know of for a photographer?

Okay, here’s the thing. I’m biased. When I first started using tablets I bought the higher end tablet. Since then, I’ve always upgraded to the top end tablet (the Intuos line). I do know many people that use a Bamboo tablet, and they love it. But for me, after using an Intuos, it’s kinda hard for me to use a Bamboo tablet. It just doesn’t have the same feel and pressure sensitivity as the Intuos.

Question: Matt, I bought a medium sized tablet a while back because that’s what you were recommending at the time. Now you use the small size. What gives?

You caught me! :) I used to use the Medium tablet as my primary tablet. Over the last year, I’ve traveled more than I have in the past, and I just kept taking my Small sized tablet with me since it was easy to pack into my laptop bag. After using it more and more, I found I liked that I had less area to move my hand over. I get very fine-tuned control because instead of moving my whole hand, I could just move my wrist and still cover a lot of space.

That said, I still have my Medium sized tablet in my office at work and I still use it. And it’s not that much larger than the small tablet so I still recommend them.

NOTE: If you haven’t read the original post then you should go back and check it out. I explain a little more about why I don’t use the larger sized tablets for editing photos.

Question: If I have an Intuos 4, Should I upgrade to the Intuos 5?

Oooo. That’s a tough one. Here’s my experience. When the Intuos 4 came out I noticed a HUGE difference from the Intuos 3. The “feel” was entirely different and it felt like a new tablet to me. And I know a lot of people that felt the same way. When the Intuos 5 came out I didn’t notice as big of a “feel” difference as I did before. But there’s two HUGE changes for me. First, (and this one is big) the Intuos 5 is a touch-senstiave tablet. Now I can use my finger to move around instead of always using the pen. So if I’m just surfing around on the web I tend to switch to using the touch features. When you’re in Photoshop or Lightroom you can also use one hand to pan, zoom and rotate your canvas. But when you really need to get precise, then grab your pen. It’s something you’ll get addicted to very quickly. Second, it’s wireless. If you have a bunch of wires across your desk, or like to sit back in your chair with the tablet, this can really help out. You just need to figure out how important those two features are to you.

I hope that helps answer any questions. Thanks for stopping by today and have a good one!

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